The Long Way
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Chapter one — the leaving

The road begins by
going the wrong way.

Every long route starts with a decision that looks like a mistake. The bus is going in the opposite direction, the ferry is late, and the only sensible thing to do is get on.

06:10 — the harbour
Chapter two — the plain

Two hundred kilometres
of absolutely nothing.

There is a stretch of road in the interior where the only thing that changes is the colour of the ground. People who have driven it describe it as the most peaceful forty minutes of their lives, and then they describe the next forty minutes, which are not.

11:55 — the salt pan
Chapter three — the pass

Above the treeline
the world becomes simple.

No trees, no farms, no fences, no names. Stone and weather and the shape of the ground, and after an hour of it your head quietly stops looking for anything to do.

16:20 — Col de la Croix
Chapter four — the forest

Four hundred kilometres
of green and silence.

The trees close in somewhere past the pass and do not open again until the coast. You drive for hours with the wipers on, and the only light in the world is the occasional gap in the canopy and a white reflector post.

04:40 — the interior road
Chapter five — the coast

And then, all at once,
the sea.

There is no warning. The road crests a low hill and the whole right-hand side of the world becomes light and noise, and the car seems to have been driving through a wall for three hours.

19:02 — the headland
Chapter six — the arrival

Three thousand four hundred
kilometres, and nothing happened.

That is the trick of the long way. You spend a day going nowhere in particular, and you arrive somewhere completely different, and the difference is not the road.

21:15 — the harbour, again

Three thousand four hundred and eighty kilometres

Ferry, bus, two trains, one very long road and a walk at the end. Nineteen hours of it spent moving and the rest spent looking out of a window, which is the ratio every long journey eventually reaches.

Ferry — 41 kmBus — 214 kmTrain — 1,120 km Road — 2,006 kmWalk — 99 km